Advice Centre
Bringing houseplants back indoors after summer: what to check first
Indoor Plant Care
Bringing houseplants back indoors after summer: what to check first
Houseplants can enjoy a summer spell outdoors, but the move back inside needs a bit of care. Before you carry them from the patio to the windowsill and pretend nothing has happened, check four things: pests, drainage, temperature and the indoor spot they are moving into.
The main thing to know is this: bring houseplants indoors before cool nights become a problem, but check them first so you are not bringing pests, soggy compost or a stressed plant in beside the rest of your collection.
Start with the pest check. A thirsty plant is usually easier to fix than a pest problem spreading across the whole windowsill.
A quick checklist before you bring them in
- Are night temperatures becoming too cool for this plant?
- Have I checked the leaves, stems and compost for pests?
- Is the compost draining properly?
- Is the pot stable and suitable?
- Does it need cleaning, trimming or support?
- Do I have a bright enough indoor spot ready?
- Can I keep it away from other houseplants for a short while?
- Have I adjusted watering and feeding for autumn?
Don’t wait for the first frost
The calendar is only a rough guide. In Dublin and across Ireland, late summer and early autumn can be mild one week, wet and windy the next, then suddenly chilly overnight. Charming behaviour from the weather, as usual.
Watch the forecast, especially the night-time temperature. Many houseplants dislike cool nights, and tender tropical plants can be damaged well before frost arrives. A sheltered patio close to the house may stay warmer than an exposed balcony or front step, so use your actual conditions rather than a fixed date.
As a general rule, start planning the move indoors when nights begin to feel consistently cool. More warmth-loving plants, such as Calathea and Maranta, should come in earlier than tougher types.
Check for pests before they become housemates
- the undersides of leaves
- the joints where leaves meet stems
- new growth
- the compost surface
- around the rim and base of the pot
- the bottom of decorative pots or saucers
Keep it apart for a few weeks if you can
If you have the space, keep plants that have been outdoors away from your indoor collection for a few weeks after bringing them in. A bright porch, spare room or separate windowsill can work, depending on the plant’s needs.
This gives you time to spot any pests that were missed during the first check. Inspect the plant weekly, especially the new growth and leaf undersides.
Not everyone has a spare plant quarantine wing. Fair enough. If space is tight, at least avoid placing newly returned plants directly touching your other houseplants.
Check the compost and drainage
- Does the pot have drainage holes?
- Has water been sitting in a decorative outer pot?
- Is the compost wet, sour-smelling or compacted?
- Are the roots circling tightly around the pot?
- Does the plant wobble because the pot is too light or too small?
- Are there signs of pests in the rootball?
Choose the indoor spot before moving the plant
A plant that has spent the summer outdoors has had much brighter light than it gets in most rooms, even if it was in shade outside. Moving indoors can be a shock.
Before you bring it in, decide where it is going. Most houseplants will do best in bright, indirect light, away from cold draughts and direct heat from radiators. Avoid moving a plant from a bright outdoor position into a dark corner and expecting it to carry on as if nothing happened.
Some leaf drop after the move can be normal, especially on plants that dislike change. A few yellowing or dropped leaves may simply be adjustment. Sudden collapse, sticky leaves, webbing, soft stems or a bad smell from the compost are different and need investigation.
Ease off watering as autumn light drops
Once plants are indoors, they usually need less water than they did in summer. Lower light, cooler rooms and slower growth all mean compost stays wet for longer.
Do not water by the day of the week. Check the compost first. For many houseplants, it is better to water when the top of the compost has begun to dry rather than keeping it constantly wet. Always let excess water drain away, and empty saucers or decorative pots if water collects at the bottom.
The exact watering routine depends on the plant, pot size, compost, room temperature and light. Annoying, yes. But still better than drowning the poor thing every Saturday because the calendar said so.
Don’t automatically repot or feed everything
- the compost is compacted or waterlogged
- the plant is badly rootbound
- the pot has poor drainage
- pests are present in the compost
- the plant is unstable or top-heavy
- the compost has broken down and stays wet too long
When the general advice changes
- Cacti and succulents Check drainage carefully. They are more vulnerable to rot if they come indoors with soggy compost after wet weather.
- Calathea, Maranta and other warmth-loving foliage plants Bring these in earlier. They dislike cooler nights and sudden changes in conditions.
- Large leafy plants Check pot stability before moving them. If a plant has put on lots of growth outdoors, it may need a support, a heavier pot or a better-balanced position indoors.
- Climbers and trailing plants Check ties, supports and long stems before moving. It is much easier to tidy them up outdoors than halfway through the hall while holding a pot and regretting your life choices.
- Badly infested plants Keep them away from your other plants until the problem is under control. In some cases, it may be better not to bring a badly affected plant indoors at all.
- Homes with pets If you have a pet that chews leaves, keep the plant out of reach until you have checked the exact plant. Do not assume a plant is safe because it is common.
