Outdoor pots have a tougher winter than plants in the ground. Their roots are above ground, the compost gets cold and wet more quickly, and a windy patio or balcony can make even a sturdy-looking pot feel slightly less sturdy than advertised.

The good news is that a few simple jobs in October can make a big difference. For Dublin patios, balconies, doorsteps and courtyards, winter pot care is mostly about three things: drainage, shelter and sensible watering.

Start with drainage

Before winter rain settles in properly, check that every outdoor pot has drainage holes and that they are not blocked with compost, roots or old leaves.

Drainage holes are not decorative suggestions. They are the escape route for excess water. If water cannot get out, the compost can become soggy, roots can struggle, and frost is more likely to cause damage.

If a pot has large drainage holes, you can place a few crocks, stones or mesh over them to stop compost falling through. The important bit is not to block the holes. Water still needs to move freely.

This is especially important for containers sitting on paving, decking or balcony floors, where water has nowhere natural to drain away.

Lift pots onto feet

Pot feet, bricks or small risers help lift containers slightly off the ground. This lets water drain away more easily and reduces the chance of pots sitting in cold puddles.

It can also help reduce frost damage to terracotta or ceramic pots. When a pot sits flat on the ground, water can collect underneath or around the base. In freezing weather, that is when cracks can happen.

Use something stable and level. A large pot balanced awkwardly on three heroic little feet is not winter preparation; it is a slow-motion accident.

For balconies, choose low, sturdy risers and make sure the pot cannot rock in strong wind.

Remove saucers for winter

Saucers are useful in summer when containers dry out quickly. In winter, they often do more harm than good.

A saucer full of cold rainwater keeps compost wet from below. That is not ideal for most outdoor container plants, especially if the weather turns frosty afterwards.

Take saucers away for winter unless there is a very specific reason to keep one in place. If you do use a saucer under cover, empty it after watering so the pot is not sitting in water.

Water less, but do not forget to water

Winter watering is not about routine. It is about checking.

Many outdoor pots need far less water in winter because plants are growing slowly or resting. Deciduous plants, which lose their leaves in autumn, usually need much less water while dormant.

Evergreens are different. They keep their leaves through winter and can still lose moisture, especially in windy weather or if you have moved them under a porch, balcony overhang or wall where rain does not reach the compost.

Check the compost with your finger. If it feels damp below the surface, leave it alone. If it is dry and the weather is mild, water gently and let the excess drain away. Avoid watering just before frost is forecast if you can.

The aim is simple: moist, not soggy. Plants are not asking for an indoor swimming pool.

Grouping pots together can also help. It reduces exposure and gives roots a little more protection than leaving every pot standing alone.

Just remember that sheltered does not mean forgotten. Pots tucked under cover may miss most of the rain, so check them now and again.

Move top-heavy pots out of the most exposed spots where possible. Add support to tall plants if needed, but avoid tying stems so tightly that they cannot move naturally.

If you are using fleece or another covering, secure it well. Loose fleece flapping around in a gale is not plant protection. It is laundry with ambition.

Protect the roots first

When people think about winter protection, they often think about wrapping the top of the plant. Sometimes that is useful, but in containers the roots also need attention.

Roots in the ground are insulated by soil. Roots in pots are surrounded by a relatively thin layer of compost and pot material, so they feel cold more sharply.

For vulnerable pots, you can wrap the container itself with fleece, hessian, bubble wrap or another insulating material. Keep the drainage holes clear and avoid trapping water around the base.

Tender plants may need to be moved somewhere frost-free. Borderline-hardy plants may cope outdoors in a sheltered position but still need protection during cold snaps. Always check the needs of the specific plant rather than treating every container the same.

Be careful with tender plants

Some plants sold for summer containers are not meant to sail through a Dublin winter outside. Tender pelargoniums, citrus, many tender fuchsias and other warmth-loving plants may need more protection than a pot foot and a hopeful glance.

If you want to overwinter tender plants, move them before hard frosts arrive. A bright, frost-free space is usually better than a dark, warm room. Keep them on the dry side, but do not let them shrivel completely.

Do not feed most outdoor container plants through winter. They are not in active growth, and feeding can encourage soft growth that is more vulnerable to cold.

A little work now can save a lot of soggy compost, cracked pots and disappointed spring inspections later.